South of Custer - Wind Cave, Evans Plunge, and a Chuck Wagon Dinner

After so much exploring in the park over the past two days, we decided to venture a little farther afield. Our first stop was Wind Cave National Park, which borders the south side of Custer State Park. Unfortunately, it turned out to be a bit of a dud—we couldn’t get into the cave without a guided tour, and those were sold out for hours. Still, we made the most of it by touring the visitor center, watching the short films, and checking out the replicas.

From there, we headed to Hot Springs, South Dakota and Evans Plunge. Just like The State Game Lodge, I have vivid childhood memories of this place. I’m not sure if it was the passage of time, the difference between being 12 and being 43, or if the place had actually gone downhill, but it didn’t feel quite as grand as I remembered. Annie called it “very low budget,” and she wasn’t wrong—it’s basically a smaller version of Splash Village.

Evans Plunge is built around a natural spring that has been visited for hundreds of years, and has operated as a water park for over a century. It has slides, games, and pools—sort of like Glenwood Hot Springs Resort, but not as hot and definitely not as nice. Still, on the way out, Faith told us, “That was really fun,” so maybe it’s just one of those places that hits perfectly for a 12-year-old.

We didn’t stick around long because we needed to make it back to Blue Bell Lodge in Custer State Park for the Chuck Wagon Dinner—a worthy trade-off for missing our Wind Cave tour. When we arrived, they handed out cowboy hats and loaded us onto a truck-pulled hay wagon for a ride through the Wildlife Loop. This wagon even had a musician on board, playing guitar, telling corny jokes, and pointing out wildlife along the way.

When we reached the dinner spot, we were treated to steak and burgers, more music, a little dancing, and a group echo call into the wilderness (which worked—so cool!). It was the perfect way to wrap up our last night in the park.

Custer Day 2

Our second day in Custer State Park started early with a private Jeep tour through the Wildlife Loop—something I can’t recommend enough. We booked the first tour of the day at 9 a.m., and our guide warned us that finding bison might be tricky. The roar of thousands of motorcycles from the Sturgis Rally often drives them away.

His concerns turned out to be unfounded. Within minutes, we came across a herd of a few hundred bison—and they were right next to the road. It was the closest we’ve ever been to them. At one point, one walked so close past our Jeep that Marley had to lean back in his seat!

For the next few hours, we spotted wildlife, learned about the park’s history, and explored the loop’s scenic stretches. Afterwards, we returned to the cabin, where the kids played in the giant field out front.  It was nostalgic seeing Marley run through the field with a boomerang—just like I had done in that very spot 30 years earlier. It was one of those full-circle moments that made the trip even more special.

We wrapped up the day with a quick trip to Keystone for dinner (not my top pick) and then headed back to the cabin for a campfire under the stars (something I’d definitely recommend).

Custer, Rushmore, and Crazy Horse

On Wednesday, we headed back to Denver Airport for what I jokingly called the “hostage exchange”—dropping off Mary Ann and picking up GG. After quick goodbyes and hellos, we set off for the next phase of our trip: Custer State Park in South Dakota. Annie had never been, but I remembered it vividly.

As a kid, about 30 years ago, my family stayed at The State Game Lodge in cabins right next to the lodge. I remember playing in the fields in front of the cabins with my cousins. Amazingly, it looked exactly the same! This time, we stayed in the same complex but in a more updated cabin—Cabin 4 instead of Cabin 33—right around the corner by a beautiful creek. Annie and I loved falling asleep to the sound of the water each night.

Just like at the other parks, the wildlife seemed to welcome us as soon as we arrived. After unpacking, we walked to the lodge for dinner. On the way, a massive male buffalo crossed the path right in front of us—way too close for comfort. We named him “Barf,” though we later learned the locals call him Bill. He’s an older bull who had been exiled from the herd. Even in his later years, he was still an intimidating sight. Let’s just say our walk back in the dark that night was… alert and cautious.

Our first full day was spent exploring the northern part of the park and the monuments just outside of it. We drove Iron Mountain Road, one of the most memorable drives of the trip. With its pigtail turns, narrow tunnels, and scenic bridges, it rivaled the Pacific Coast Highway, Route 66, the drive from Durango to Silverton, and the Alpine Drive in Rocky Mountain National Park—both in beauty and in white-knuckle moments.

Iron Mountain Road ends at Mount Rushmore. The monument itself looked the same, of course, but the visitor center, trails, and café had all changed since my last visit. Faith, at 12, had the same reaction I did at her age: “This is stupid.” Still, we managed to pull her through the visitor center, the theater, the trail, and up to the base of the mountain. Lainey loved the history, the views, and chatting with a Lakota guide. Marley’s highlight was simply the teepee.

Next, we headed to Crazy Horse—a stop I skipped last time. Annie was amazed at how much the site had changed. While the mountain now had an arm and hand added to the sculpture, the biggest difference was in the expanded visitor facilities. I enjoyed the entire experience.

We took the Needles Highway back, making plenty of stops for overlooks before grabbing dinner in the town of Custer, which was packed with motorcycles thanks to the nearby Sturgis Bike Rally.

In less than 24 hours, we had explored for hours, driven miles, and seen once-in-a-lifetime sights. And we still had days to go. We turned in early that night, ready to wake up for the Wildlife Loop the next day.

Rocky Mountain National Park

On Sunday, we left the resort and headed toward Rocky Mountain National Park. On the way, we stopped at Fr. Bert’s church for Sunday Mass. After a three-hour drive, we arrived at our Airbnb in Grand Lake, Colorado. Grand Lake feels much like Estes Park, but it’s smaller, less busy, and has a more local vibe. The house was perfect—overlooking the lake, right in town, and with plenty of space. It even had a hidden playroom for the little kids. Fr. Bert met us there and stayed the night before continuing on to Denver.

We also had other special guests in town—Em and her family, including her mother, brothers, and their families. The seven of us headed to their vacation home for a pizza dinner. Mary Ann and Sue had time to catch up while the kids enjoyed playing with all the other kids—something they had been missing.

The next day, we went into the park. Just like in Yellowstone, we were greeted by a moose within minutes of passing through the entrance. We made our way up to the Alpine Visitor Center at the top of the Rocky Mountains for lunch, pictures, and another visit with Em and her family. Along the way, we stopped at several scenic spots and overlooks, but none were better than Alluvial Falls. The kids had a blast climbing on the rocks at the base of the falls—joined again by their friends from the night before.

After leaving the falls, we drove out of the park to Estes Park for dinner at Mama Rose’s. I had been there many years ago and still remembered the creek behind the restaurant. On the way back through the park, we watched the sun set over the mountains, spotted more wildlife, and listened to “Bill,” our guide, along with the Jurassic Park soundtrack—instrumental music that felt perfectly matched to the scenery.

Our final day in Grand Lake was spent exploring local parks, restaurants, and shops. We also enjoyed some time at the house to relax, do laundry, and get ready for our next adventure—South Dakota.

  

Glenwood, Father Bert, and a Cabin in the Woods

The trip from Denver to Glenwood was about 3 hours (maybe 4 with stops and traffic).  Here we hit a highlight of Colorado, and our trip.  We arrived at the Glenwood Hot Springs Resort in the late afternoon.  Just enough time to get our suites and get in the world's largest Mineral Hot Springs.  This is my 3rd time at the hot springs. But since my last visit they added a whole slew of pools, a slide, and a splash pad.  Though the kids loved the new attractions, we all spent most of our time in the large hot springs pool.  A cool 95 degrees year arounds, and fed by a hot spring.  It was cool after going to Yellowstone and seeing the Geysers and hot springs to actually swim in one. 

After cleaning up we walked into town and met Fr. Bert at a Mexican place near downtown.  Fr. Bert was a family friend and childhood pail with Dick (Beepa).  It was good to catch up.  During diner he invited us to his cabin in a town called No Name, Colorado.  Just a few minutes away.  Maryann had heard about this place and jumped at the opportunity to see it.  

The next morning we headed out to No Name.  I had joked about this exit on I-70 while driving past - so it was neat to actually get off.  The exit seemed to hold a street, maybe two.  We took that main drag part way up the mountain to Fr. Bert's cabin.  A wonderful place he had retired to after 45 years as a priest in the area.  Here he had spent a considerable amount of time clearing the area, and fixing up the cabin.  The result is a wonderful cabin within ear shot of creak, and a quick jaunt to a few hiking trails.  

Fr. Bert needed to leave for Mass in Fraser, so we headed back to the Springs for a few hours of swimming.  After, we found the Glenwood Vaudeville Review.  A place I can't recommend enough.  I was a little worried when our waiter explained he'd be singing a song in a bit - but was genuinely surprised to learn that the waiters, bar tender, and staff WERE THE SHOW.  after dinner they had an hour variety show consisting of goofy sings, skits, and parodies.  It was fun for all ages.  MaryAnn said it was the most fun she'd had in years.  After an intermission and dessert they had another 45 minutes or so of songs, parodies and entertainment.  We found this place on a whim (using AI Chatbot).  Things couldn't have worked out better.